Planting Tips

Roses

When planting new roses where old roses have been growing, always replace the soil, to avoid contact with rose sickness. Use soil from an area not previously used for rose growing. In Autumn pick up and dispose of all rose leaves on ground around bushes, this helps prevent black spot on the leaves. Give roses a mulch of well-rotted Horse manure (at least 1 year old) before winter i.e. December as this protects them from frost.
Prune roses down in early March and feed with rose food at rate of 68grams per sq metreor 2 oz per sq yard. Chop up used Banana skins and throw around rose bushes as this helps prevent black spot on rose leaves, or give a dressing of potash in spring, this has the same effect. Drenching rose bushes with mild Jeyes fluid is also beneficial, 1 level table spoonful in a 2 gallon bucket of water and sprayed all over bushes and ground.

Fruit Trees

The best time to plant fruit trees and bushes is from November to March. When planting new stock make sure the graft is just above soil level, to avoid suckers. Plant tree or bush with a handful of fish, blood and bone mixed in with the soil around the roots to give the tree a good start. Use well rotted (at least 1 year old) horse manure as a mulch in winter.
Prune apple trees back in January, taking off a third of the previous seasons growth to an outward facing bud, this promotes side spurs or shoots from which fruit will appear. Only do plums and damsons every 2-3 years. Pears and Cherries need not be touched.
Apply a grease band around the trunk 60cm / 2’ from the ground in October. Apply Fruit tree and bush mix in spring, this is a specialist fertiliser only available from Tarn road nurseries, which contains lime, fish, blood and bone and potash. A winter wash can be applied to fruit trees in January.
Summer pruning can be undertaken in August but the main prune should be in January. Try to remove and dispose of all dead leaves around trees and bushes in autumn.

Trees

With a little care and attention your tree will live on for a very long time, even hopefully into the next century! On arrival (if by Mail Order) unpack the tree carefully and slowly don’t cause any damage by ripping with a knife. Moisten tree roots a little before planting. Dig hole 18’’ X 18’’ place fish, blood and bone in bottom of hole, adding a spade full of compost ie grow bag compost and fork in thoroughly. Place stake in hole, towards one side, firm in with a hammer or mallet being careful not to hit your thumb or finger whilst doing it! Then place tree in hole, make sure the graft or nobly part at bottom of stem is just above ground level at all times. Fill in with soil giving tree a shake to settle soil around roots. Knock tree stake in further until the top of the stake is just below the lowest branch of the tree, tree stake may need reducing with a saw if too long. Be Careful whilst sawing!!! Attach tree tie, remembering to have the spacer in the centre between tree and stake. Water tree in, wind rabbit coil around tree stem at bottom of tree. Tree stake can alternatively be placed at a 45-degree angle to the tree; this is more effective on bigger trees.
A grease band can be applied to your tree 60cm/2’ up from the ground, this will help prevent pests in winter crawling up the stem into the tree, and laying their eggs.
Good luck

Growing Asparagus

The crowns are generally one year old when supplied to you the customer, and with a little care and attention they will grow on for years to come and yield good crops of tasty succulent asparagus shoots, ready to eat with very little preparation.

The first main consideration when growing asparagus is the site and soil. Good drainage is essential, soil type is less important. Choose a sunny warm site, sheltered from strong winds, dig ground over thoroughly in either autumn or early spring. Incorporate plenty of well-rotted manure or compost. Lime the soil if it is acid. A PH of 7 is ideal. Make sure the ground is clean and well prepared before any planting takes place.

Prepare a trench roughly 8 inches / 20 cm deep, trenches should be 3 feet / 90cm apart. Bevel the bottom of the trench so it is higher in the middle and sloping on both sides. Lay the crowns out in the bottom of the trench, spreading the roots out evenly. Lightly cover the roots with a fine layer of soil, the crowns should now be buried 2-3 inches deep within the trench. As the asparagus crowns begin to grow and shoots appear cover them over with more soil, a little at a time until eventually the trench is completely full. Soon after planting the first spears will appear, do not cut these shoots, leave them to grow into bushy fern like stems.

Regular cutting of stems can begin during the second year after planting. As soon as shoots reach 4-5 inches / 10cm cut them off 3 inches below soil level. Never let the shoots grow too long before cutting. Stop cutting shoots in late June and allow all shoots to develop into ferns. This allows them to build up strength for next year.

In autumn cut the long ferny shoots (once they have turned yellow) down to 1-2 inches above soil level.

Before the shoots appear in spring make a ridge of soil over each row with a hoe. Apply a surface dressing of fetiliser such as growmore or fish, blood and bone. Always remove any red berries in autumn before they drop to the ground. The crowns should last for between 10 and 20 years.

Asparagus shoots are best cooked in a steamer, for 3-4 minutes until flexible but not soft. Serve with butter.

Good luck